Cesky Krumlov

After check-in at the Hotel Peregrin (about 5 or 6 of our group are staying at pensions nearby) we were all set free for an orienting wander around town to kick off our stay at Cesky Krumlov. 


Jack and I found a hotel restaurant (the Hotel Dvořák) that served Pilsner Urquell and we joined a couple of tour friends for a beer and a snack before heading back to the hotels to prep for our guided tour.



A crazy person in shorts was offering raft tours of the river surrounding Cesky Krumlov, the Vltava River a.k.a. Moldau.
A bridge busker near as we supped our beer was playing a Steel Drum designed to be in his lap. The bridge is called the Barber’s Bridge because the barber who not only cut hair but also used leeches to bleed the sick, pliers to remove teeth, and other healthful assists, had his shop near this bridge for hundreds of years.
 

We re-assembled near 5PM for a guided tour led by Sharka, a local CK person who gave a great lesson about the history, economy, and geography of the area. We were with her for about 2 hours and learned many tidbits, many of which I probably won’t remember. But you can reference the post I made on Sept. 2, 2017 about the city, based on research I’d done prior to our departure: https://chichlee.wordpress.com/2017/09/02/upcoming-international-trip/

Some of the highlights were that in CK, there are probably only about 14,000 residents, but only about 500 of those live in the tourist section. There is some dispute regarding whether CK’s palace castle is larger than Prague’s, but the statistic remains that CK has the second largest in the Czech Republic. It is owned now by the state government and is being meticulously restored, with great effort and care being made to get it back to its original condition, based on when the actual structure was built. This is true of private investment in the town structures also, the entire Old Town and castle/palace area being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Sharka has lived her whole life here, including when the soviets had control of it, when she called it “A Locked City.” When she was young, she lived with her grandparents, and had no idea that her grandfather could speak German and that she had German relatives, since revealing those secrets when she was a child was taboo. She remembers the Velvet Revolution (a non-violent transition of power in what was then Czechoslovakia, occurring from November 17 to December 29, 1989) and for the first time in her young life, Czechs were allowed to travel, get more than the two state-sanctioned TV stations, and more than the state-controlled radio broadcasts. Recently, she has traveled to the United States and other places around Europe like any other person in her 30s living in Europe. She has two children, both of which are in the totally free public school system, and both of which particpate in an after-school program at the restored/renovated Music School in the Old Town area, where Sharka pays only 150US$ a year for them to have 2 hours of daily after school instruction in the musical instrument (including voice) of their choice. Her son is the 5th best pianist in his age group in the country.


We walked through the streets of the Old Town with Sharka pointing out many items and views and buildings and history of interest to us. We ended at the Castle as the crowd numbers and light were going down, and saw the bear in the castle’s “moat.” Roughly, the history of the bear is that one of the royal owners of the town/castle (Schwartzenbergs I think) who received possession of Cesky Krumlov and the Palace/Castle through a connection cemented by marriage in 1661 to the Eggenberg (the family to carry on the surviving local brewery, still serving delicious beer today). But the Schwartzenbergs didn’t take possession of the duchy and castle until the male Eggenberg line died out, in 1717.




So back to the bear: The Schwartzenbergs believed themselves to be related to the Orsini (?) family of Italy (but this has been found to be untrue) so they allied themselves with that family by including a bear in their Germanic coat of arms, and in response the Orsini family sent them live bears through the years. The male of the last pair living died last year, leaving the female, who looks lonely and who is quite elderly, in her habitat near the castle. Her name is Maria Theresa, and she (along with many individuals of her clan) have lived long, pampered lives in their Czech Republic home. Sharka said that she is and shall be the last of her line.

Speaking of the Schwartzenbergs, they have a rather interesting coat of arms, which includes an acknowledgement of their involvements with the wars against the Ottoman Empire with the ravens pecking the eyes of a severed Turkish head. They held Cesky Krumlov and the castle until 1918, when two World Wars interfered with “ownership” and “stewardship” of the area, culminating in the Schwartzenbergs ceding the holdings to the state in 1947 (which, after WWII was soviet Russia). In 1989, along with the falling of the Berlin Wall and the break of up of the Soviet Union, the Czech people regained control of their lands and properties and have been working to build a tourism industry ever since. 


The slow process of restoration for preservation has entirely been undertaken during the last 28-ish years. It is truly amazing what they have accomplished in that span. It was quite lucky, however, that during the wars, CK was not considered much of a target — while the Nazis occupied CK, it was not bombed and no war installations were placed there, so the damage from the wars was more that of neglect rather than destruction. The neglect continued, of course, through the Soviet period, so the undertaking has been nevertheless daunting.


Sharka told us that back in the 1990s you could buy a house in CK for about $1000 American, and the costs of renovation were nominal. Now they’re going for millions.

Layers of top-plaster and other materials covered original frescoes and sgraffito ornamentation on the insides and outsides of the buildings, and historians are tenaciously bringing those back to their original wherever possible. 



At the castle is the sole remaining Baroque theater in the world, and it survives (where many others were burned due to candle lighting and effects including fireworks) nearly intact: they are researching and restoring 700 pieces of costuming, many original musical scores,  and hundreds of set panels, not to mention the theater itself, including the stage, orchestra, and noble seating areas. The original drape/curtain sequestering the royalty from the commoners is still extant. 
Most remarkable, however, is that the machine works for moving the set pieces in and out, up and down (even through the floor) survive — some of the pieces and gears and rollers, historians are still unsure of their uses or purpose. We had an amazing tour of the theater, but were enjoined from taking any photos, so I cannot show you the amazing things we saw there.  

The theater is used a few times annually only, and most significantly at a conference of restorers and historians who gather to actually see a production completely done in the Baroque style  followed by feasts and masquerades, etc., and when the production is complete, they can ask questions and suppose solutions and study the materials unique in the world and continue to try to figure out how they work and what is required to restore them to their proper service.

This is truly a unique place deserving of the World Heritage designation. The downside being that it is also truly overrun with visitors to the extent that it is difficult to get by all the selfie sticks and crowds of photo-takers mobbing the viewsheds, narrow alleyways, and shops/cafe/restaurants. While I must admit I’m thrilled to be here, I’m awful glad I’m not staying even one day longer. I hope for Sharka’s children’s sakes the complete embrace of tourism to the apparent exclusion of everything else, is worth it down the line.

Sharka escorted us to our dinner location, an authentic Bavarian restaurant where we basically had the place to ourselves. Excellent food, and we tried the Eggenberg beer, although they were out of the dark lager version. 

I had roast duck on sauerkraut, with regular and potato dumplings and a salad.

After the theater tour, we walked up to the Baroque gardens, still in bloom. Lovely, quiet spot because few of the mobs of tourists want to make the effort to walk uphill as far as necessary to get there.



The fountain in the main square, lit at night as we walked home from dinner.



The “coat of arms” of Cesky Krumlov.



Gotta-Do’s Near St. Petersburg

South of St. Petersburg proper are two areas the Romanov royal family used as summer and special event refuges: the town of Peterhof; and an area known by three names 1) Pushkin’s Town (the great poet was in a school here during his formative years), 2) the Children’s Village (during Soviet times, institutions for children were established here), and 3) Tsar’s Village (Peter the Great’s second wife, Catherine the First, built her own palace there and through the years, many Tsars and Tsarinas built abodes in the area).

In the town of Peterhof (Peter’s Court) is Peter the Great’s grand palace, and several out-palaces including a small sanctuary Peter called “Mon plaisir” (my pleasure), and the Hermitage, where both Catherines (1 & 2) used to get away from “society.”

Four interesting facts we learned while strolling around Peter’s Palace grounds: all the many, many fountains’ water was originally pushed into the air under gravity-fed pressure, because an original source of water was found nearby, and it was much higher than the marsh-filled-with-dirt acreages that make up the palace grounds (if I understood correctly, this natural water power is no longer in use, having been modernized since the time of Peter the Great); Because of this water source, Peter’s palaces were among the first in history to have indoor plumbing; Peter the Great was a jokester, and set up fountain/water-related “traps” to amuse himself at his guests’ expense (nothing disastrous, and several are extant, run by workers so the “trick” or “key” cannot be figured out by today’s visitors and it is great fun for children especially, to try to work out which stone or brick one steps on will turn on the spray); and Peter the Great was somewhat agoraphobic, preferring to live in the modest, low-ceilinged Monplaisir, rather than the grander main Palace.

We were not allowed into the Grand Palace and much of the grounds had large pavilions and temporary stages etc. that had been used during the G-20 Summit, the day before. We were allowed into the smaller living quarters of Peter, but no photographs were allowed. A quick web search returned no results for photos, but you might be luckier than I, and it would be well worth the effort if you could find additional pix of the interiors. Peter himself designed many of the interior decorations we saw.

It is critical to remember, as you look at all the photos here and on the Internet, which I encourage you to do, that the buildings, artworks, walls, furniture — everything you see today was obliterated during WW2. Treasures were looted and sold, rooms and buildings were either bombed, burned, or converted to barracks or other military uses, and as the German army withdrew after the siege of Leningrad, the buildings of the Catherine Palace were intentionally destroyed. Much of the national heritage was left to rot during the Soviet era (but honestly, not all), however they did sell off bits and pieces of treasures to finance their government over the years. What we see today has been painstakingly restored and replaced. The Russian people did manage to spirit away and hide to protect many artworks and original furniture and household goods from these and other important buildings. In addition, the architecture and interior designs were often painstakingly documented.

But it has taken decades for the people of Russia to bring these national treasures back to their former state, and much of the work is still underway. I’m terribly sorry that I missed the opportunity to take pictures of the photos we saw of the post-war state of the buildings – I was so aghast at the difference between what I could see and what they started with after the war, I simply neglected to take any pictures.

So some of what can be seen is, for example, not Delft Tiles, but rather, plaster replicas of the originals, which were lost forever.

Peter the Great’s Palace & Grounds

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This was a “Horn Band” in which each horn plays one note, like a bell choir. They were very good and we listened to several arrangements. Behind them is the fountain called The Checkerboard Cascade. There are colorful dragons at the top.

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The Catherine Palace

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Statue of the great man himself, Alexander Pushkin (1799-1837). English Majors, Rejoice!

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A small portion of the famous Amber Room. Completely lost during WWII, it has never been recovered, so has been replaced at enormous expense, based on detailed drawings of the originals.

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